Buying a used Switch: the complete checklist
What to ask the seller, how to inspect the console, live-test the Joy-Con and make sure the account and software are clean before you pay.
A used Switch can save you a lot of money, but a few problems are easy to miss in a quick meet-up: drifting Joy-Con, a swollen battery, a console that can't go online, or one still linked to the seller's account. Go through this list in order. It takes about 15 minutes, and a genuine seller won't mind.
1. Before you meet: ask the seller
- Which model and serial number? The first two letters tell you the model: XA = original V1, XK = battery-improved V2, XJ = Lite, XT = OLED. See our model comparison.
- Joy-Con drift history: has either Joy-Con ever drifted? Were the sticks replaced, and by whom (Nintendo or a repair shop)? Are these the console's original Joy-Con?
- Repairs and opening: has the console ever been opened, repaired or had its screen or battery replaced?
- Receipt and box: proof of purchase helps with warranty and shows the unit isn't stolen.
- What's included: official AC adapter, dock and HDMI cable (not on Lite), Joy-Con grip and straps, any case or screen protector.
- Has it been modified? Avoid consoles sold as modded, "jailbroken" or with custom firmware. They can be banned from online services and the eShop, and used for piracy.
2. Physical inspection
Screen
- Look at the screen at an angle with your phone torch for scratches. A screen protector can hide cracks underneath, so ask to see under a corner if it is lifting.
- On a plain white or bright screen, look for dead pixels, dark spots or yellow patches.
- On a dark screen, look for uneven light around the edges (backlight bleed on LCD models).
- OLED models: on a plain grey screen, look for faint ghost images that stay put (burn-in).
- Touch screen: tap all four corners and drag across the whole screen, for example by scrolling the HOME Menu and typing on the on-screen keyboard. Every area should respond.
Body and frame
- Check for cracks, bends and dents, especially at the corners and around the vents.
- Swollen battery: put the console flat on a table. The back must be flat, it shouldn't rock, and the screen must not be lifting from the frame. If it is, walk away.
- Look at the screws on the back. Scratched or missing screws usually mean it has been opened before. Ask why.
- Check the kickstand opens and holds, and the vents aren't packed with dust.
- Check for rust or white marks around the ports, which can mean water damage.
Ports and slots
- Game card slot: insert your game card. It should go in smoothly, and the game should appear on the HOME Menu and start.
- microSD slot: turn the console off, insert your card, turn it on and check the console can see it in System Settings → Data Management.
- Audio jack: plug in wired earphones and play a game or video. Sound should come from both sides with no crackle when you wiggle the plug. Then unplug and check both speakers.
- USB-C port: plug in the charger. The charging icon should appear straight away, and the plug shouldn't wobble or need to be held at an angle.
- Buttons: press every button, including power, volume, HOME, Capture, ZL/ZR and L/R. Each should click and spring back, with nothing sticky or mushy.
3. Live-test the Joy-Con
Joy-Con drift (the character moving when you're not touching the stick) is the most common fault on used Switches. Test both Joy-Con, attached and detached.
- On Switch: HOME Menu → System Settings → Controllers and Sensors → Test Input Devices → Test Controller Buttons. On Switch 2, the menu is called Controllers & Accessories.
- Move each stick slowly in full circles, then let go. The stick should snap back to the centre and stop moving.
- Press every button and both sticks (push them in). Each should light up on screen.
- On Switch 1, also try Calibrate Control Sticks in the same menu: let go of the stick and watch whether the marker drifts on its own.
- Slide each Joy-Con off and back on several times. They should lock firmly with no wobble, and the console should show them connecting.
- Play a game for a few minutes, handheld and with the Joy-Con detached. Walk a character in a straight line and stop: they shouldn't keep drifting.
4. TV and dock test (not for Lite)
- Put the console in the dock with the official adapter and HDMI cable. The picture should appear on the TV within a few seconds and the screen should turn off.
- Take it out of the dock: the picture should switch back to the console screen.
- Third-party docks don't always work after system updates. Prefer the official dock, especially on Switch 2.
5. Software and account checks
- Connect to the internet (use your phone's hotspot) and go to System Settings → System → System Update. Let it update or confirm it is up to date.
- Open Nintendo eShop. If it loads, the console can use Nintendo's online services. A console that can't connect at all, even with a working connection, may be banned. Don't buy it.
- Seller's account: ask the seller to deregister the console from their Nintendo Account (Nintendo calls it the primary or pass-enabled console; it's done in Nintendo eShop from their account page), then remove their user.
- Factory reset: ask the seller to reset the console in front of you: System Settings → System → Formatting Options → Initialise Console. This deletes everything, so they should back up first.
- Check the serial in System Settings → System → Serial Numbers matches the sticker on the console.
- At home, sign in with your own Nintendo Account and open Nintendo eShop so the console is linked to your account.
6. Accessories check
- Charger: the official Nintendo AC adapter is best. If it isn't included, use a reputable USB-C Power Delivery charger from a known brand, not an unbranded one.
- Dock and HDMI cable: the Switch 2 dock is not compatible with the original Switch.
- Joy-Con grip and straps, plus the box if available.
- Check that included accessories are for the right model: Lite, original/V2, OLED and Switch 2 cases and screen protectors don't fit each other.
Red flags: walk away if
- The seller won't let you power it on or test it, or wants to meet somewhere with no power or internet.
- The back of the console is bulging or the screen is lifting.
- It can't connect to the eShop or update, or is advertised as modded.
- The serial number in System Settings doesn't match the sticker, or the sticker has been removed.
- The price is far below similar listings with no clear reason.
Quick checklist
| Check | What good looks like |
|---|---|
| Serial and model | Matches what was advertised (XA, XK, XJ or XT) |
| Screen | No cracks, dead pixels, burn-in or dead touch areas |
| Body | Flat back, no lifting screen, original screws |
| Game card and microSD | Both read correctly |
| Audio | Both speakers and the headphone jack work |
| USB-C | Charges straight away, plug doesn't wobble |
| Joy-Con | No drift, all buttons register, lock firmly on the rails |
| TV (not Lite) | Picture appears through the dock |
| Online | System update and Nintendo eShop work |
| Account | Seller removed, console reset in front of you |
Once you've bought it, protect it on day one with the right case and screen protector for your model.
Day-one protection
Tempered glass screen protector 2-pack – Switch 2
9H glass with an alignment frame for bubble-free fitting. Two in the box.
Tempered glass screen protector 2-pack – Switch OLED
Clear 9H glass for the OLED model, with a fitting guide.
Hard shell carrying case – Switch 2
Larger shell made for the 7.9-inch console, with a stand-friendly inner flap.
Hard shell carrying case – Switch / OLED
Zip case with a moulded shell, mesh pocket and slots for game cards.
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